Australia here I come.

I have had a very bad few years, persistent injuries, break ups and job losses have resulted in taking a lot of time off climbing, and (as any climber will know) in taking time off I started questioning my existence and getting rather down. But thats life and it wouldn’t be fun if it was easy, so I got myself fit and booked a flight back to Australia. I had the most amazing trip there last year and knew I had barely scratched the surface of what was here. So this time I was armed with a work visa allowing me to stay in the country for a year, perfect! That would give me loads of time to fully experience what Australia has to offer. Well it turns out I might need more time, the Grampians has a lot to offer, it would take several life times to fully explore this place. The rock is the best I have ever climbed on and is so varied with huge orange quartzite cliffs and perfect sandstone boulders all just an hour away from each other. I believe this is the best place for rock climbing on the planet! It doesn’t come without a few words in the small print, yes there are creatures that can kill you here and I have already seen my fair share. Plus the suicidal kangaroos and emus that keep trying to take them selfs and your car out. Coming from the UK where a cow is the most dangers animal this does take some time to get used to, but the climbing is so good its worth a potential snake bite. With my time left I really want to explore the more esoteric areas and hopefully do a bit of developing. Fingers crossed for some good luck I feel I deserve it.

Two of Australia’s best V13s

On the Beach vs Cherry Picking

A very good question and one that is extremely hard to answer. I first saw both of these climbs on Scarred for Life, Australia and they instantly went on the dream list. Both problems have a lot going for them; they are in amazing locations on super pretty rock, both with nice holds and fun moves. An extra positive is they are both in the shade for most of the day, everything you want from a dream boulder. On the Beach is beautiful, the holds arch through the centre of the steep boulder with great colours and features. Cherry Picking is a little intimidating, it’s big, it’s steep and for me, there was only one sequence which felt feasible. Either I was going to be strong enough to climb it or I wasn’t, and that added to the pressure. To find out which is best we will have to go deeper.

On The Beach sits proudly underneath the infamous Taipan wall, to me it looks like a giant Flying Saucer sitting atop a pedestal at the pinnacle of the Trackside area. I tried this problem before Cherry Picking, firstly, because its easier to get to and second, it looked more complicated so I wanted to get stuck in. With tricky toe hooks low down and a knee bar through the crux, it took me a while to figure out all the little subtleties within each move that would work for my body type. It really takes it out of your core and my abs were destroyed after my first session. I couldn’t just pull a bit harder on it, I had to learn the movement and execute it correctly. This showed on my second session, I repeatedly fell out of the knee bar as I didn’t manage to do the previous moves in the most efficient way. It was very frustrating, but I really didn’t mind because the climbing was so good. I needed to execute the correct sequence perfectly to have a chance of doing the last hard moves. What I found hard was resting for long enough between goes because I was too excited to try it again. The attempt I finally topped out didn’t feel amazing, my body felt tired and I never felt secure, but I managed to hit every move right and flowed through the climb. This is what made On the Beach so enjoyable, working out my sequence yet never quite feeling comfortable. All of these elements made this 8b one of my favourites ever.

On the Beach Video

The walk up to Buandik is long but that makes Cherry Picking even more satisfying, it feels like an adventure to go and try it which I really loved. Cherry Picking is a beautiful boulder, all the holds are on the perfect angle to complement each other and it has great presence, if not a little intimidating. It’s a really meaty climb and on my first session I got completely shut down. It’s really powerful and very crimp strength dependant, I couldn’t have many goes before I was too tired and big rest in-between attempts was welcomed. After two rest days I went back and made good progress falling off the last move 4 times, I then had to go lie down before I could walk out. The last hold is a slot that is really good but hard to hit, it’s hard to feel like your progressing when you fall repeatedly from the same move, even if it is the last one. As with On the Beach, I almost didn’t mind being shut down as the climbing was so enjoyable. The first time I managed to hit the last hold I cut loose and had to readjust the right hand, I feel it was pure determination of knowing this was my last session on this amazing boulder which made me hold on. The incredible views surrounding this climb and the long, steep walk in add to the intensity of Cherry Picking, but it’s the actual climb itself that makes it one of my all time favourites. Each move gets more difficult progressing to that final, precise big move. Holding it was by far one of the most satisfying feelings I’ve had in 20 years of climbing.

Cherry Picking Video

Despite these two climbs being very different styles they both have everything you want from a world class boulder. If you like a bit of tension and technique, On the Beach is the one for you. With its many different sequences it was a real joy to work out which one was best for me. Cherry Picking was a try-hard-big-move climb that makes you feel like a beast when you’re feeling strong, but a kitten when you’re not. It’s a full on fight to the death type of climb and the joy comes from the challenge of the whole process. All I can say is that for me, Cherry Picking felt more satisfying. It was the climb I was desperate to try when over in Australia and was the one I wasn’t completely confident about, all of this made it my favourite climb of the trip.

 

Climbing New Zealand

Well I can officially say that New Zealand has some of the best climbing in the world, a strong statement I know, but hear me out. I’d always heard that Castle Hill had amazing limestone bouldering but I was apprehensive to check it out, I’d heard that the rock has no texture, is too slick, and is not featured enough. This, and the fact it is on the other side of the world meant that other areas closer to home became a priority. I was so pleased I decided to make the long trip, the climbing here is incredible and whilst it’s true that Quantum Fields is pretty slick and featureless, it offers a really unique style of climbing. I needed shoulders of steel as a lot of problems provide no holds, just different angles to push and wrestle your way up. One problem that comes to mind is Monkey and the Magic Peach which involved a massive rock over while trying to do a one armed shoulder press, I didn’t succeed on that one and I’m sure my shoulder thanks me for it.

Quantum Fields and Spittle Hill are great but I could see myself getting a little bored here after a while. But they aren’t the only areas you can climb at, the mother land is just 5 mins further up the valley. Flock Hill sits proudly as a massive boulder field on the hill side and its amazing! It’s about a 45 minute walk and it’s worth every step, the bouldering up there is world class. It is more textured and definitely has more holds then further down the valley. What I found weird coming from the UK was climbing on limestone boulders and massive ones at that, huge house sized boulders with the most beautiful features and shapes on them, it is a truly magical place with beautiful views of snow capped mountains surrounding the area.

One way I could describe the area is to imagine a limestone Fontainebleau, the precision and delicacy you have to use there transfers well to Castle Hill. There was a lot of standing on small feet and a lot of tricky mantle top outs. The features and formations around the area are one of its best attributes, I wasn’t climbing a face with holds up it (although that can be an option) I thought the best lines were climbing the features , big squeeze prows and funky ribs that stick out of the rock, huge pockets you had to manipulate your way through or around, all of them big and oh so beautiful.

I wasn’t expecting to be climbing as well as I did, the only two problems I really wanted to try when leaving the UK were Little Book of Calm and Interstellar Overdrive. Little Book went down will not to much of a fight, all it took was a cold night and a bit of psych from a fellow Brit (see previous post). Interstellar Overdrive is one of the most well know boulders up there, it’s a steep prow which requires a decent amount of squeezing and some tricky heel hooks to secure victory. At first sight I knew it would suit my style and took it upon myself to try and flash it. I did have help, I sat patiently watching while my mates Cliff and Lans worked it out. I am 6ft4 and Cliff is 6ft5, watching him on the problem and how a big man fits into the sequence helped massively. After about 45 minutes of watching I couldn’t wait any more and excitedly sat underneath ready to try and flash a problem I had seen in photos for years. All of Cliffs beta and a huge injection of psych helped me flash this amazing boulder problem. Another life dream ticked.

With my two dream problems ticked I turned my attention to another line that caught my eye, The Big Show is a huge prow that sits proudly in the middle of Flock Hill. It is an awesome line and one I was drawn to, it’s big, not dangerously big, you just don’t want to fall from the top big. It starts on a sharp little crimp and a big move to a slopey rail, a hard heel hook and cut loose help to gain good edges and the arete where the squeezing begins. Four hard compression moves get you to the last long lock off to a goodish hold and the top. I worked the top four moves on a rope and they felt tough, they are full commitment moves at a point where a fall wouldn’t be very enjoyable. I had help with this one too, Mr David Mason came to the rescue finding the crucial beta for the start. Dave is one of the most psyched individuals I have ever met and is great fun to work though a problem with. After a day of working through the top four moves and a day of trying the start I was ready to try and send. It’s an intimidating problem and I got through the bottom without any problems, I let out a few screams on the top four moves to stop my brain from freaking out and just cracked on. The moment on the top section felt amazing, it was delicate yet powerful. There was no glory jug, I had to keep climbing till I was stood on top to celebrate, I walked away that day with the second ascent of The Big Show and Dave grabbed the third.

The Big Show 8a+

There are so many lines that have yet to be climbed up there and I managed to get a first ascent of my own. I came across a cool looking arete whilst warming up one day and started trying it, it was tricky and needed a clean before I could do it. The locals were always prepared making the long walk up with ropes, brushes and spray bottles just in case they wanted to clean a new line. Within minutes a few guys had offered me their gear so I could clean the problem. It was incredibly generous of them to do this, I don’t think I have been anywhere else where the locals are so keen for development and welcome foreigners to come and open lines. I called the line Do Wrong By None because that was the feeling I got from the people and the place, there was no wildlife looking to hurt you and the people always had your best interests at heart.

Do Wrong By None 7a+, first ascent video

 

I had a great two months in New Zealand, flying into Auckland and out of Christchurch we managed to see lot of the country and experience a lot of New Zealand’s climbing. We loved it, the people are just as beautiful as the countryside around them. The climbing was amazing for me, what makes a trip great is trying to climb on as many different moves, styles and amazing lines as possible, I feel I succeed in that this trip.

Problem List In order of ascension:

• Milliennium 7b+
• Mobius 7b+
• Sunset Arete 7b+ (flash)
• Psychic Tea Lady 7a+ (flash)
• Jet Stream 7c
• Little Book of Calm 8a+
• Vapour Trail 7c+
• Interstellar Overdrive 7c+ (flash)
• Joker 7c (flash)
• The Phoenix 7a+ (flash)
• The Outcast 7b+
• Do Wrong By None 7a+ FA
• The Big Show 8a+
• Caption Sassy Pants 7b+ (flash)
• Caption Sassy Pants Direct 8a
• Monster Society of Evil 7c (flash)
• Obelisk 7c (flash)
• Caption Crush 7c+
• Mullet Arete 7a
• Disconnect Low 7b (flash)
• Chaos Out of Order 7c (flash)
• Komodo 8a
• Limstone Orgasm 7b+
• Superman 7c+
• Succession 7c+
• Monkey see Monkey Do 7a+
• Snake Eyes 7b+
• Quantum Mechanics 7a+
• Achilles Last Stand 8a
• Archvile 7b+
• Cold Fusion 8a
• Juggernaut 7c
• Grandad Vest 7b+
• Megalithic 7b+
• Fears Crimpie 7c
• Alchemist 7c+
• Opium 7a
• Origami 7a
• Charlie Brown 7c (flash)
• Gun Slinger 7b+ (flash)
• Okinawa Steel 7b+ (flash)
• Ground Zero 7a (flash)

All in all a great trip with amazing people and some of the best bouldering in the world. I will defiantly be going back to Flock Hill, there are still some many projects to be climbed and some unfinished business to finish off. .

Flock Hill -Blizzards, Night sessions and Sends.

We spent two days at a friends house in Christchurch, firstly because we were both getting very smelly and needed a shower and second, we couldn’t get back up to Castle Hill because there had been a massive dump of snow and the road was closed to cars without snow chains. Our friend Cliff committed to driving up, check out his video of the amount of snow that fell in one night (scroll to 1min 40).

However, with the snow came good conditions and me, Abby and Joe headed up the hill ridiculously psyched from a night of chatting climbing and watching videos. Joe was trying Moby Dick, a beautiful looking 8a+ named so because the boulder looks like a whale. After a quick warm up, he was on the top slab on his first attempt and we were all so psyched, but suddenly, he messed up the foot sequence and fell. It’s so hard to stay relaxed once you have reached a high point on your project, your adrenaline is pumping and mind is racing with thoughts about why you fell and if you can get there again. But like a true pro, Joe stayed calm and finished Moby Dick the next try. We were all so excited, it was great to be there with a friend watching him get it done.

After seeing Joe crush Moby Dick I was psyched, so we ran down the hill to Little Book of Calm which I had tried briefly a few days before. It’s a great line with one massive move at the start followed by a keep it together finish. By the time I had warmed up on the problem is was dark and very cold, by psych pulls you through anything. I got closer and closer with every go, but it was getting seriously cold and when it gets to that point, you have to think about the people you are with and how much they are suffering, but both Abby and Joe wouldn’t let me leave the problem and within three goes I was standing on the top a very happy man.

It’s amazing what a good team of people can do for you and your motivation, I feel that if one out of the three of us wasn’t there then me and Joe wouldn’t have sent those beautiful boulders.

Here’s to many more days like that.

An amazing, super positive girlfriend.

Joe a top the whale.

Mid move high on Moby Dick.

 

Kura Tawhiti (Castle Hill)

So, we’ve arrived and had our first week of bouldering and it has been so good! I’d heard a lot about the bouldering in this area and to be honest, it wasn’t all good. A lot of people say that the boulders are too polished and don’t have enough features or texture. Whilst this is slightly true of Spittle Hill and Quantum Fields (i.e Castle Hill), Flock Hill is a little bit different.

I have only had one day at Castle Hill, it is a tourist hot spot and I was constantly on display whenever I pulled on. Yes, it is polished in places, but that’s because of its easy access (only 10mins easy walk from the car park). And yes, some of the boulders around this area are very blank and unclimbable, however, the good definately outweighs the bad. The landings are the best you will ever have and the formations are inspiring. The good climbs are world class and what’s bad isn’t really that bad at all.

Flock Hill. What can I say other than I have truly fallen in love with climbing there. The area is 15mins past the climbing at Castle Hill and is quite different. It has more texture, more features and is definitely less polished. This might be because of the 45min hike up a steep hill, or that there is no guide book for this area, either way, there are enough established problems and projects to keep any level of boulderer busy. I love the walk (most days) because it gives you a sense of adventure, and not having a guide book makes bouldering here feel pure.

There is a certain style of climbing here, us Europeans don’t have much of this style. The best I can compare it to is a limestone Fontainebleau or less grippy gritstone; really technical but also powerful. We are used to grabbing holds and pulling, you do still have to do this here but with more delicacy and finesse. You can’t just be over strong.

As soon as we arrived on our first day we went straight to the Flock Hill Lodge to sign in (Flock Hill is on private land and you have to sign a disclaimer). Me and Abby then parked next to several other cars and began our hike. The hike up the hill really took it out of us the first time but the legs soon got used to it. Not knowing what any of the problems were I put my pad under a few easy looking lines and got climbing. I was planning on meeting a friend and like magic, he suddenly walks around the corner! (The place is absolutely massive so trying to find people can be tricky). He introduced me to a few locals who live in Christchurch and the tour began. They showed us around loads of the classics and a few problems I really wanted to try. I did have a list of problems I’d seen from videos and photos over the years, but as I was coming back from injuries, it wasn’t a big list. My list consisted of:

• The Phoenix 7a+
• The Outcast 7b+
• Limestone Orgasm 7b+
• The Joker 7c
• Jet Stream 7c
• Vapour Trail 7c+
• Komodo 7c+
• Interstellar Overdrive 7c+
• Cold Fusion 8a
• Little Book of Calm 8a+.

Well, maybe the climbing suits my style or maybe I’m stronger than I thought. In 5 days of climbing I have done (in order):

• Millennium 7b+
• Mobuis 7b
• Sunset Arete 7b+ flash
• Psychic Tea Lady 7a+ flash
• Jet Stream 7c
• Little Book of Calm 8a+
• Vapour Trail 7c+
• Interstellar Overdrive 7c+ flash
• The Joker 7c flash
• The Phoenix 7a+ flash
• The Outcast 7b+

So all is good in my little world, might have to revise that list. We haven’t even checked out everything at Castle Hill and Flock Hill yet, let alone been to a few other areas nearby. The potential here is staggering.

Right now we are in Queenstown doing some snowboarding and supposedly having a rest for 5 days. Then it’s back to the hill for two more weeks where i’ll be meeting up with a few friends from the UK. Hopefully we’ll set that send train rumbling over the hill once more.

From North to South

The North Island has been amazing but it’s now off to the South and Castle Hill for us. I managed to climb at several little spots on the way through the North and each one had its own unique style,which is mostly to do with the different rock type.

Mangaokewa was a good sport crag that had steep (slightly dusty) routes. Plus it was close to the Waitomo glow worm caves which are a must see.

I managed to do a lovely little first ascent in Kinloch called Shroud of Green. It starts in the same place as Shroud of Greenery but instead of moving right into the groove stays left and climbs the feature to the jug. The hardest move is getting your right foot onto the starting hold while holding a sharp crimp with your right hand. Its a really fun little problem and a good start to a very long trip. Next stop Castle Hill.

Video here: www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZhJeIt0AzI

Quit your job, book a flight and go climbing.

The one good thing about being injured for so long was that it gave me a chance to make some money. I got a job working with my girlfriend, Abby, for an event company that specialise in Food Festivals. It was great fun; I got to meet loads of interesting people and try some amazing food.

Abby has always wanted to travel and she lived in a van for 18 months to save money for a trip. So, I had money and a girlfriend that was super psyched to travel the world. Not a bad combination.

New Zealand and Australia are two places that I’ve always wanted to go; more specifically, Castle Hill and the Grampians. I’ve watched videos and seen photos from both of these places since I was a kid, but I never thought I would get to them just because of how far away they are, and how much it costs to get there. But now we both had money, there was no excuse to not go. So, after the summer events were over, we both quit our jobs and booked a flight. We had no real plans other than climbing and not working; 6 months sounded like a good length of time: two months in New Zealand, two months in Oz and then two in Indonesia/Philippines.

Other than booking a camper van for New Zealand we haven’t got much else planned. Wish us luck, I feel this could be an interesting journey. I can’t wait to see what happens.

A few from font

La Fosse aux Oreilles at Drei Zinnen, Fontainebleau. This is a great problem with really cool features and a very hard start for the tall. I could put a pad down and had to bring my left hand and foot out first then duck my head so I wouldn’t scrape the boulder below. The problem is totally worth all this contorted confusion with some very rewarding holds and a great slightly harder direct.  

 

Messing around on the massive boulder at Mout Ussy.

 

Testing out the new Scarpa Drago on L’Etre Have assis at Mount Ussy. There are the perfect shoe for Fontainebleau. I cant wait to get back and explore more of the forest.

 

Northern Territory

The sandstone in Northumberland is amazing but unfortunately with it being sandstone it sometimes breaks, although it is much better then some places I have visited it still occasionally snaps. One problem that broke at some point last year was Northern Territory at Kyloe Out, I had climbed the problem a few years back and had loved it. With it being broke I decided it would be a good opportunity to revisit those moves I had loved so much in the past. The problem is next to Prime time on the steep prow underneath Australia crack, the first few moves have always been the crux but with the second left hand hold going from a good pad edge to a sloppy little crimp it felt really hard. The first two session I had on it I got shut down, with such a positive hold breaking the climb had changed loads and I kept getting powered out at the top but perseverance payed off again as I managed to send it just as the darkness set in. I was a bit gutted when I first heard this problem had broke as it can ruin a problem but I feel it has given this problem a new lease of life and knocked the grade from 7c+ to a solid 8a.
Thanks to Mark Savage for the Photos.

The second left hand move. the broken hold is below my left hand.

No longer an easy heel hook to get you into the upper section.

The broken hold in my left hand, now a lovely but poor drag.

America January 2015

So I was off to America and for a hole month. After a bad 2014 due to repeated back problems I was so excited to be going on a good old fashioned bouldeing trip. My mate James had already been state side for two months before I got there and had soaked up all the local knowledge. He was however staying in a small camper van which meant sharing a bed, this would have been fine for normal sized people but me and James are both 6ft 4inch. The first few days in red rocks where amazing, I managed to send Book of Nightmares, Wet Dream and Atlas Shrugged all amazing five star problems. Then unfortunately the rain came and it was off to Bishop for a chance in states and rock type. Bishop has quite shape rock and took a good week for my skin to get used to it. The goal in Bishop was to try The Buttermilker and The Mandala the two problems I had seen and heard most about as a kid. The Buttermilker was first up due to the hot conditions and the fact it never sees sun. I managed to send it after 4 day and much skin lost. It’s an amazing powerful problem on slopers and toe hooks. I ended up trying the mandala at night when it was coolest having a really fun session getting past the crux several times but just crimping out at the top. With skin trashed it was time to head back to red rocks to recover on some lovely soft sandstone, the first problem we went back to try was Hungry Hungry Hippos, a sit start to an existing problem first done by Ethan Pringle. The crux revolved around taking a small edge which your left and matching into a crimp undercut with your right, after that you just had to climb the 7c stand start. I spent 3 hour figuring out the start till I was rewarded with the slaby top. All in it was probably the most productive trip I have ever had and which so much fun. Cant wait to head back to finish off The Mandala.

Ticklist

Book of Nightmares 8a
Tailpipe 7c
Atlas Shrugged 8a+
Wet Dream 8a+
Queens Sweet Nectar left 7c (flash)
Evilution 7c+ (flash)
Standing Kill Order 7c+ (flash)
Kill On Sight 8a
Twin Cracks 7c (flash)
Michael Cane 7c
Little Forgotten 7c+
Checkerboard 7b+ (flash)
Checkerboard right 7c
Beefy Gecko 8a
The Buttermilker 8b
Xavier’s Roof 8a
Iron Fly 7c
Soul Slinger 7c
O to a Modern Mayor 7c
Hungry Hungry Hippos 8a+
Prune Tang 7c
Seek and Destroy 7c+ (flash)

Atlas Shrugged 8a+>

James on White Horses 7c+

Wet Dream 8a+

Wet Dream 8a+

wet Dream 8a+

Wet Dream 8a+

Wet Dream 8a+

Checkerboard 7b+

The Buttermilker 8b

The Buttermilker 8b

The Buttermilker 8b

Hungry Hippos 8a+

Hungry Hippos 8a+

Hungry Hippos 8a+

Seek and Destroy 7c+